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my lessons and understandings on skincare

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  • my lessons and understandings on skincare

    I just read this article in the papers today. A derm was answering a reader's question and he said that collagen when applied tropically or taken orally is of no use at all. The skin can't accept collagen and when taken orally, it will be broken down into amino acids which don't help our skin at all. The only way for our body/skin to absorb collagen is through injections.

    And he also mentioned that evening primrose does not help the skin when taken alone. It has to be taken inconjunction with some other stuff which he did not mention.

    Hope this little trival info helps!

  • #2
    Actually collagen is also what that helps our skin clear up after a PMS breakout, especially afew days after your period, or during your period, your skin starts to clear, thats partly because your body starts producing collagen.

    Taking more vit C helps to produce collagen, so eat healthy girls!


    • #3
      my lessons and understandings on skincare

      There are always hypes in the market saying something that is purely natural and is miraculous for skin improvement. I noticed that two features usually come along with these hypes:
      1) they always cling together with some plausible but tempting stories. like for intenz, they use the story of japan rice farmer.
      2) no exact listing of active ingredients is given.

      actually there are not many chemicals that are dermalogically proven to be effective for wrinkling, whitening, or moisturization, etc. you can find these effective chemicals easily from the web. for example:
      1) retinoic acid and its many derivatives are popular and recognized chemicals for fighting fine wrinkles, clearing pores and rearranging the cells in our epidermis.
      2) Vit c and kojic acid are chemicals for whitening
      3) glycol, Vit E, hyaluronic acid and some minerals are benificial for moisturization.
      4) there's no ingredient in this world that is safe and effective for pitted scars I emphasized here because there are too many hypes in this forum on this. Pitted scar is a result of lose of collagen, which is in our dermis layer. no matter how much effort you put on your epidermis layer, nothing will happen to the dermis. Up till now, no chemical is able to permeate through our epimdermis to our dermis layer safely and effectively. Glycolic acid (or AHA) or retinoic acid, when used in a high concentration for chemical peeling, is able to penetrate into our dermic layer and take effect due to their small molecular size. but consider how risky is a chemical peeling. On the other hand, if they are used only in a low concentration in our daily skincare, the effect is extremely little.

      so in those advertisements, whenever you see effrontary promises like wrinkle fighting, whitening bla bla, check out their ingredients.

      but it is also true that for a same ingredient, some products maybe better than others. this is mostly due to the drug delivery system developed by the company. i.e. with certain carrier, the ingredient may deliver a longer and more consistent effect than it is with other carriers.

      This is my personal experience and is also my understanding of skincare as a chemist. I feel obligated to share my 2 cents' worth here because I don't wish to see my fellow cotters to have the same bad experience as i had before. Thanks for reading.


      • #4
        Words right out of my mouth. I'm also a huge consumer advocate, and I highly recommend that people learn to read ingredient lists for their own benefit. It helps a great deal in improving not just skin health, but overall well being as well.


        • #5
          thanks aphrael, actually I am most time a silencer in this forum, but after reading your post in the Intenz thread and very much encouraged by that, I feel so much obligated to share this with cotters so that they need not plunge big money into hypes as I was before.

          edit to remove quote. please refrain from quoting unnecessarily. there's no need to quote when replying to a post directly above you.
          Last edited by duckiee; 16-10-2004, 02:24 PM.


          • #6
            To add-on to this point. I notice that some cleanser actuaaly contain Formaldehyde. I once did used a cleanser that contain that, I stop immediately after I saw it in the ingredients list.

            Being in the biotechnology field, formaldehyde is what we use in a medical laboratory! We used it as a preservative, i.e. a chemical used to preserve dead bodies and tissue samples!

            To side track a bit, I once remembered a friend of mine told me that a 50+ years old senior in her lab having a 40+ years old face. And she is working in a oncology lab, i.e. a lab that does reseacrh on cancer cells, hence needs Formaldehyde to preserve tissue samples.

            This may sounds good to some, but Formaldehyde is classified as a human carcinogen(Cancer causing). Short-term exposure to formaldehyde can be fatal. Long-term exposure to low levels of formaldehyde may cause respiratory difficulty, eczema, and sensitization.

            So my advice will be the same as what Aphrael had said, read the ingredient lists. Hope my post will improve the awareness among cotters.


            • #7
              I came across this somewhere sometime and it has been stuck in my mind forever.......

              "over the counter beauty products are meant for making good skin better."


              • #8
                Well, in the case of the lady working in the lab, I think it's more genetic than anything. It could be that she'd be looking 30+ rather than 40+ if she hadn't been working with formaldehyde. Just look at what it does to dead bodies! The ones I've seen are all brown and dry - I'm certainly not donating my body to science seeing what it'll become. The bits and pieces keep falling off! OK, too much info as usual.


                • #9
                  How about antioxidants in skincare, ladies? Like, grapeseed extract?

                  Or oils/extracts of certain nuts? Marine stuff? Copper? Zinc?


                  • #10
                    Grapeseed extract aka pycnogenol, is a very potent antioxidant, but there have not been large scale clinical trials proving its efficacy. It doesn't mean it doesn't work, but I'd rather use green or red tea serums which have been proven. It's also more expensive. There are other antioxidants like coenzyme Q10, all sorts of marine algae extract, even ginseng and gingko, but while these are loosely associated with improved wellbeing when taken orally, noone's actually proven anything with topical skin use.

                    Oils are in general good moisturisers if you find the right one for your skintype. My faves are rosehip, macadamia nut oil and squalene, though I never use them straight as my skin prefers more humectants like pure hyaluronic acid. Rosehip has retinoids as someone here posted, which is weakly active and helps with healing. Copper peptides have been proven to improve collagen production in mice, but not in humans. Many women claim that it works, which is all well and good, but it's more suitable for mature skintypes - even for prevention of aging, you shouldn't need to start it until mid-late 30s ... there are other things you can use in the mean time since skin that's not significantly deficient will not benefit, just like people without vitamin deficiencies won't benefit much from taking supplements, if it make sense. For younger skin antioxidants, sunscreen, retinoids, AHAs and appropriate moisturizer with good humectant/emollience ratios will be more than adequate. There's also some hype about newly discovered molecules like beta alistine, but again, while in house trials have gotten rave results, I'm just not convinced and for the price, it's not worth being a guinea pig for. All it means is that it doesn't do any harm to the skin, the government doesn't care as long as it doesn't poison people, and there are rich people willing to shell out cash for any claim of eternal youth.


                    • #11
                      Thanks again, love. You crack me up Brown and dry.. ?? Eeew!

                      If I were rich, I'd be going for laser treatments and such :roll:


                      • #12
                        Ah, but again, only those who have specific skintypes and skin problems will benefit most. Even my mom who's 50+ may not necessarily benefit from it as she still has pretty good skin for her age, not as deficient in collagen as most others.


                        • #13
                          Ah! Collagen. So what stuff *grows* collagen? None? :piss: Orally? Topically? No?


                          • #14
                            i agree with Aphrael on the point that the lab lady probably looks young coz of genetic reasons and not coz she's working with that formaldehdye thingy... coz my mom is 60 and people have been saying she looks around 40+ instead.. hopefully i'll get to inherit her wonderful genes.

                            another thing, just being curious, does Aphrael work in the field of science? you seem really knowledgeable! i could learn many many things from ya! heehehe.


                            • #15
                              Bo-Peep (actually, what does your nick mean?), what's your mum's skincare regime? Tell me! :note: Ha ha! I took after everything bad from my ma except the good traits like applying body cream religiously every night, being a clean freak, etc. etc..

                              Aphrael, what're your thoughts about pearl powder? I've recently experimented with mixing it in my scrub and mask (with milk). Felt strangely like Dermalogica's Microfoliant, haha. The stuff does kinda stick to the skin, eh? The skin feels a bit tight afterwards, but not the dry tight tightness. I wonder if they clog pores though.